How to fill nail holes before you move out (properly)
Check-out inspections are pickier about walls than almost anything else in a rental. A few unfilled picture-hook holes can turn into a deduction that feels out of proportion to the actual damage — so it's worth doing properly, a few days before you hand the keys back, rather than as a last-minute scramble. Here's the method that actually holds up, plus when you genuinely don't need to bother at all.
Do you actually need to fill them?
Not every hole needs filling, and it's worth checking your tenancy agreement before you reach for the filler — some agreements go further than you'd expect.
Deposit scheme adjudicators (the three UK schemes are mydeposits, the Tenancy Deposit Scheme and the Deposit Protection Service) generally treat a reasonable number of small picture-hook or pin holes from ordinary use as fair wear and tear — the natural, expected result of living somewhere for a tenancy, which a landlord can't charge you for. A handful of 1–2mm holes from hanging a few pictures over a year or two normally falls into that category.
Where it gets less clear-cut is anything beyond that: a wall used to test out a set of shelf brackets you later abandoned, holes from a wall-mounted TV bracket, or a cluster of test holes from working out where a mirror should go. Adjudicators weigh the number and size of holes against how long you lived there and what's reasonable for a tenancy of that length — more holes than a typical tenant would make, or larger fixings than picture hooks, tend to get treated as damage rather than wear and tear.
There's also a catch worth knowing: filling and painting over holes is itself a form of redecoration, and some tenancy agreements explicitly require the landlord's permission before you paint or patch anything, even a small repair. Read your agreement before you start. If it's silent on the point, filling a handful of small holes neatly is almost always seen as considerate rather than a breach — but if your agreement specifically says no redecoration without consent, a quick message to your landlord or agent covers you.
What you'll need
For small-to-medium holes — the kind picture hooks and screws leave — you don't need a full decorating kit. Four things do the whole job.
Ready-mixed interior filler (Polyfilla-type)
Comes ready to use straight from the tub, no mixing — ideal for the odd hole or two rather than a full wall of repairs. Look for a "fine surface" or "multi-purpose" interior filler rather than an exterior or masonry one.
Check prices on AmazonFlexible filling knife
A small flexible filling knife (sometimes sold as a "stripping knife" or "putty knife") gives a flat, even finish and stops you overfilling the hole. A fingertip works in a pinch, but a proper knife gives a cleaner result.
Check prices on AmazonFine sanding block or sanding sponge
For knocking dried filler flush with the wall. Fine grit only — anything coarser scratches the surrounding paint and creates a new problem to fix.
Check prices on AmazonTouch-up paint pen
For disguising the filled patch once it's dry, if the colour needs it. Only worth buying once you know roughly what shade you're matching — see the colour-matching section below first.
Check prices on AmazonThe proper method, step by step
- Clear the hole. Brush away any loose plaster dust or flaking paint from around the edges with a dry fingertip or soft brush. Don't leave crumbs behind the filler — they stop it bonding properly.
- Dampen it slightly. A fingertip of water on the hole edges helps ready-mixed filler grip, especially in an older, drier plaster wall. Don't soak it — just take the dryness off.
- Apply the filler slightly proud. Push it in with the flexible knife so it sits a hair above the surrounding wall — filler shrinks a little as it dries, and a flush application often ends up as a slight dip.
- Go in thin layers for anything deep. For a hole deeper than about 5mm, use two thin layers rather than one thick one. Let the first dry fully (check the tub for timing — often a few hours, sometimes overnight) before adding the second. A single deep application is the most common reason filler cracks or sinks later.
- Let it cure properly. This is the step people rush. Give it longer than the tub suggests if the room is cold or the walls are old and damp-prone — a soft or spongy patch under a fingertip means it isn't ready.
- Sand it flush. Fine-grit sanding block, light circular motion, just enough to bring it level with the wall. Wipe away the dust with a slightly damp cloth before deciding whether it needs colour-matching.
Match the method to the hole size
| Hole | What to do |
|---|---|
| Small pin or picture-hook mark (up to ~2mm) | Often doesn't need filling at all — usually fair wear and tear |
| Standard picture hook or small screw (2–4mm) | One thin layer of ready-mixed filler |
| Wall plug or anchor hole (5–8mm) | Two thin layers, fully dried between coats, then sand |
| Several holes close together, or missing plaster | Worth flagging to your landlord rather than DIY-ing — a rough repair can look worse than the original holes |
Colour-matching without making it worse
This is where good intentions go wrong most often. A filled hole is small and easy to miss; a filled hole with a visibly different-coloured or different-sheen patch of paint around it is not. Before you touch a paint pen, weigh up whether touching up is actually the better option.
If you know the exact paint (some landlords leave a labelled tin, or the colour code is on your inventory or move-in paperwork), a small dab from a matched touch-up pen or a fine artist's brush, feathered thinly at the edges, is usually invisible. Apply less than you think you need — you can always add a touch more, but a blob of the wrong shade is much harder to fix than a slightly visible filler dot.
If you don't know the exact paint, be cautious. Off-the-shelf "near enough" white or magnolia rarely matches modern trade paints exactly, and sheen is just as noticeable as colour — a satin touch-up on a flat matt wall catches the light differently and can draw the eye more than the original hole did. In that situation, a neatly filled and sanded hole with no paint at all is often judged more kindly at check-out than an obvious brush-shaped patch in the wrong finish.
And remember the redecoration point from earlier: if your tenancy agreement restricts painting without permission, that applies to a two-inch touch-up patch just as much as a whole wall. When it's not clear-cut, a quick photo and a message to your landlord asking whether they'd like you to touch up or leave it costs nothing and removes the guesswork.
One more thing before you hand back the keys
Nail holes are rarely the only mark on a wall by move-out day. Got scuffs too? See how to cover wall scuffs without repainting the room — much of the same fair-wear-and-tear logic applies. If some marks are adhesive residue rather than nail holes, the fix is different — see how to remove Command strip residue without damaging paint. And for the next place, our guide to hanging things without drilling covers what to use so you're not filling holes again in twelve months.
FAQ
Will I lose my deposit over nail holes?
Usually not for a small, reasonable number of picture-hook holes — deposit scheme adjudicators generally treat that as fair wear and tear. Larger fixings, a high number of holes, or damage beyond typical picture-hanging are more likely to be charged for. When in doubt, check your move-in inventory and photos, and fill neatly regardless.
Should I fill the holes myself, or leave it for the landlord?
For small holes, filling them neatly yourself before check-out usually avoids a professional redecoration charge. The exception is if your tenancy agreement bans DIY repairs or redecoration without permission — flag it to your landlord or agent first in that case.
How long before I move out should I fill the holes?
At least a few days beforehand, ideally closer to a week. Filler needs time to fully cure and can shrink slightly as it dries, so doing it the night before risks a sunken or unfinished-looking patch right when it's being inspected.